|
I’ve been a teacher at The Danish Watchmaker School For 33 years. I’ve been retired for some years now, and I now want to be a ‘real’ clockmaker. I am now designing and constructing new superior clocks. Some of my designs are very different from what has been seen before. I want to construct some top quality clocks, and so all my clocks are kept in glass exhibition cases, allowing them to be seen without endangering the delicate clocks. Follow the links on the left to see pictures and a brief description of some of the clocks I’ve made. You should be able to understand the descriptions even if you’re not a clockmaker yourself. If you’re interested in a more detailed description, please contact me on
Please note: None of my clocks are for sale, and I will not repair your clock. About my clocks. I’ve used small ball bearings at all pivots, so the wheels turn much easier. This means the weight/spring load can be less. It also causes less wear and tear. All pinions are made of arnesteel, hardened in oil and tempered blue for maximum strength. They have then been ground and polished. The brass is half hard 63% copper. All brass has been gilded to hinder tarnishing. I’ve opted to cut ting all my wheels with involute teeth. Cycloidal teeth’s are used in most clocks. Involute teeth’s has the advantage of rolling well against each other, causing very little friction and therefore almost no wear and tear. The downside of evolvente teeth are that all wheels must have at least 12 teeth, meaning the wheels are going to be large. With cycloid teeth the pinion can be made with 6-8 teeth but that would case larger friction between teeth’s in each wheel and more wear and tear.
Clockmaker
|
|
|